Why MEDICAL GRADE Skincare?

medical grade skincare,  cosmeceutical skincare

A solid skincare routine is a must in the quest for healthy, youthful skin. But when it comes to sifting through the myriad of different skincare products available today, there’s everything from your run-of-the-mill over-the-counter drugstore products to medical grade skincare, which stand in a league all of their own.

Medical grade skincare brands are growing year by year. As more attention is placed on this category of supercharged skincare replete with quality active ingredients, the conversation surrounding them widens. If you’re interested in dipping your toe into the medical grade skincare pool and what to know what makes them superior to other grades of skincare, consider this your ultimate guide to the best medical grade skincare options and everything you need to know.

Understanding Medical Grade Skincare

Medical grade skincare stands apart from other skincare products. Sometimes classified as cosmeceutical skincare, this more concentrated and scientifically backed skincare is designed to address a specific skincare need or issue, including pigmentation, wrinkles, acne, or laxity. Medical grade skincare contains far more advanced delivery systems and a much higher concentration of active ingredients, like peptides, antioxidants, and retinol, compared to over-the-counter skincare, making for more dramatic and visible effects and results in a faster period while improving both the aesthetic and medical benefits of the skin.

When selecting the best medical-grade skincare products for your skin, it’s important to pick dermatologist-approved and endorsed ones. Skincare products that boast a dermatologist’s seal of approval are of higher quality, have been put through a far more rigorous testing process, and often are accompanied by clinical data, too. Plus, medical grade skincare products that dermatologists recommend and sell meet their high expectations and criteria for what makes a skincare product excellent.

Although medical grade skincare may be superior to what’s available on drugstore shelves, their accessibility is far more limited. Most medical-grade skincare products are only available through a dermatologist, medi-spa, or licensed retail website, so always make sure you are buying your products through an authorized retailer.

Key Features of Medical-Grade Skincare

medical grade skincare, cosmeceutical skincare

Several features allow for medical grade skincare to stand on its own. For starters, medical grade skincare companies can source highly stabilized active ingredients that won’t break down or degrade as fast as other skincare ingredients. They are also formulated using advanced technologies to penetrate deeper and faster into the skin for better results without causing irritations or sensitivities.

Medical-grade skincare products may be more expensive than their less concentrated counterparts. However, that’s simply because the active ingredients, such as peptides, antioxidants, exfoliating acids, and retinol, are of a higher quality with clinical evidence. Most

dermatologists also find medical-grade skincare more effective than over-the-counter products. Some medical grade skincare products are even recommended to be used alongside in-office treatments and procedures to amplify and maintain the results.

Expert Tips for Optimal Results

Medical-grade skincare comes with more concentrated ingredients, so following your dermatologist’s instructions and never abusing these skincare products is essential. Since some of the best medical grade skincare products employ exfoliating acids, which help with skin texture, unwanted pigmentation, and even acne, it’s crucial to slowly introduce these products into your current skincare routine and use them every few days until you can work your way up to daily use to limit breakouts, skin purging, redness, dryness, and sensitivities.

Should any adverse skin effects occur, it’s best to reevaluate your skincare routine and see if any other products may be causing a negative interaction. If not, consult with your dermatologist and their team of professionals. 

While most skin types can benefit from medical grade skincare, some may find the more potent concentration of active ingredients too much for their skin, causing intolerance. To make sure a medical grade skincare product is a good fit for your skin, always consult your dermatologist or their aestheticians first.

It’s important always to follow the directions when using medical grade skincare brands and not overdo it. Consistency and patience with a medical-grade skincare routine are key to making the most of the products. But that also means not overdoing it or using more than the recommended dose.

New Year, New Skincare Resolutions!

skincare resolutions

2024 Skincare Resolutions

I personally don’t like to make New Years Resolutions, feels like too much pressure. But when it comes to healthy, beautiful skin sometimes we need some guidance. So we’ve compiled a VERY FEW things you can do this year to make life easier but get some results!

1: Simplify your skincare routine

I know skincare is a hot trend right now, and I love that. But a lot of people are using way too many products due to so many being the trendy thing to try. If you are applying 5/6/7 products at one time, ask yourself, how much are these actually absorbing? You are most likely wasting your time and your money. Use 1-3 products that you love and are medical grade and corrective. For example:

Morning Routine:

Cleanse: IF not extremely dry. If you are like a lot of our Colorado clients and extremely dry, it is best to skip cleanser in the morning or use a creamy cleanser. You do not need to spend a lot of $ on a cleanser, it is on the skin for about 15-30 seconds. Use something basic and affordable such as Cetaphil or Cerave. Save your $ for the corrective products.

Antioxidant: This is a product you want to spend your $ on. Topical antioxidants fight free radical damage such as UV radiation, pollution, etc. all of which breakdown your skins’ barrier function and collagen and also create sundamage in the form of reds and brown spots in the skin. A high quality antioxidant will most likely contain Vitamin C. Not all Vitamin C’s are created equal, you want to look for THD, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. This is the most advanced form of Vitamin C.

Moisturizer: If your skin requires extra moisture after your antioxidant then apply. You don’t need to spend a lot on this product either as you have already put the correcting product on.

SPF: Apply your SPF last and use something you love. With all the choices out there these days, it’s very easy. Make sure to reapply mid day.

Nighttime Routine:

Cleanse: I always recommend a double cleanse especially when wearing sunscreen and makeup. This insures a clean, fresh slate for your very important correctives to absorb and work properly.

Retinol or Retinoid: These Vitamin A derivatives are the single most important part of anyone’s skincare routine aside from SPF! Retinoids are most likely prescribed from a doctor and tend to be more aggressive but definitly work. Retinols are mostly over the counter, but come in a variety of strengths and tend to be more time released so they are tolerated well by the skin and therefore can be used more consistently.

Moisturizer: A simple moisturizer will seal in water and prevent water loss. The corrective ingredient is on the skin so your moisturizer doesn’t need to be fancy.

2: Get consistent with professional treatments

Monthly treatments don’t have to break the bank. We offer several membership options to make it easy to be consistent. Treating your skin monthly with either a microdermabrasion, chemical peel, hydrafacial, dermaplane etc. allows us to stay on top of any skin concerns you have and improve them. Consistent exfoliation, extractions and collagen stimulation gets the skin in shape and keeps it there. Think of us as the gym for your skin!

3: Practice better sun prevention

Sunscreen can only protect your skin so much. Here in this Colorado elevation we absorb SO much more UV rays than those at sea level. In order to really prevent sundamage you need to apply spf every 2 hours when outdoors and wear a wide brimmed hat to keep the rays off your face as much as possible. A lightweight neck gator like the ones used for fishing are a great idea to prevent redness, brown spots and wrinkles on your neck and chest.

Simplify your skincare in 2024

Consider a simplified approach to skincare in 2024. Focus on quality rather than quantity, streamlining your routine to include essential steps like cleansing, a high-quality antioxidant with Vitamin C, moisturizer if needed, and reliable sunscreen. Consistency is key, both in your daily regimen and regular professional treatments. With a commitment to sun prevention, including frequent sunscreen application and protective accessories in sun-exposed areas like Colorado, you can look forward to healthier and more radiant skin without the burden of excessive skincare rituals.

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Vitamin A aka Retinoids

retinoids

What are Retinoids? 

Most of us have heard of Retinol and Retin-A, but do you know that ALL retinoids and retinols are simply forms or derivitives of VITAMIN A?!

This often surprises clients when I tell them this, as Retinoids and Retinols have been vilified by some people in the skincare industry. A lot of skincare companies are making their money off of using the words “clean” and “chemical free” these days. All this does is scare the consumer. As we all know everything is a chemical, water, air, vitamins, everything. So this holds no truth and can be very unbeneficial for your skin. Vitamin A derivatives have been used for decades and have been studied since the early 20th century when the structure of Vitamin A was discovered.

Vitamin A

Our bodies can’t make vitamins, so we must get them externally. We can get vitamin A either through topical application or through the ingestion of beta-carotene-rich foods like carrots, sweet potatoes, and spinach. When broken down, vitamin A and its metabolites are very beneficial. They can affect everything from vision to inflammation to the proliferation of cells.

Proliferation means growth. Retinoids increase cellular turnover in the skin, meaning they grow faster, which is going to make the skin a little bit thicker. They also make the outermost cells shed, which is why some people think it’s exfoliating, even though that’s really a secondary effect. This makes the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) more compact, which gives a nice anti-aging benefit.

Unfortunatly some skincare companies such as Beauty Counter are dragging them through the mud claiming they cause cancer. This is the furthest thing from the truth and they have no clinical studies to back up their claims. We actually use retinoids to treat and prevent cancerous and pre-cancerous cells. And the clinical papers on it are never ending. Just another reason to get your skincare advice from professionals.

What does this do for me? 

Retinoids also aid in the moisturization of skin by stimulating the productions of compounds that have sugars in them (glycosaminoglycans).

Most importantly they help PREVENT collagen loss and SUPPORT collagen production!

Finally, retinoids are antioxidants, so they help prevent a lot of oxidative stress. Retinoids are truly amazing and do so many great things for the skin!

 

Retinoids vs Retinol: What’s The Difference?

Curious about the difference between Retinoids vs Retinol? This is an extremely common question, especially working with Dermatologists. Clients want to know if they should see the Dermatologist for a prescription or use something OTC (over the counter).

The Simple Difference

I like to keep it simple. The way I explain it to my clients is: Retinoids=Prescription strength, Retinol=non-prescription strength. All are Vitamin A. Now there is a lot of wiggle room here as there are a lot of different brands and concentrations out there.

Retinol Example

retinoids vs retinol

Retinoid Example

retinoids vs retinol

Retinoids vs Retinol Explained

A patient would see a Dermatologist for an Rx retinoid cream such as Tretinoin or Tazorac for conditions such as  severe acne, scarring, etc. These are converted to retinoic acid rapidly in the skin and begin the cell turnover process very fast. This is good for getting results quickly.

The downside of these can be, (for some, not all), extreme irritation and dryness. Because it works so quickly and strongly, it runs the risk of degrading the skins barrier function, leading to dryness, redness and overall intolerability. The problem with this is that a lot of clients will not use them consistently, which is crucial for improvement. For example: they will apply it Sunday night and become so dry and irritated for 2-5 days, then use it again once their skin has returned to normal. While this will still give a result, It is uncomfortable and not as efficatious.

Retinol on the other hand takes a bit more time to be converted into Retinoic acid in the skin but sometimes this is a good thing. Our favorite Retinol products from Revision Skincare are time released so the skin absorbs it in a very controlled manner, decreasing downtime and irritability. It also has several antioxidants including bakuchiol which is a broad spectrum antioxidant that increases the efficacy of the retinol, and contains several other antioxidants to help sooth the skin.

All of the Revision Skincare products contain peptides that do all sorts of things like help the skin hold on to precious moisture and help prevent loss of collagen and elastin, decrease inflammation, lighten hyperpigmentation, the list goes on and on. Revision has been a pioneer in the retinol business. Their products deliver prescription strength results but feel like a nuturing, luxury line.

Vitamin A derivatives are the ONLY product clinically proven to treat fine lines and wrinkles, so regardless of which one you choose, just use it! You will thank me later…

If you are unsure of which retinol to use, come in for a consultation. We are happy to find you the perfect fit for your skincare goals!

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Collagen Peptides

What are the benefits of collagen peptides?

We get this question ALL the time. We as advanced, medical aestheticians deal with the production of collagen on a daily basis. So it only makes sense that clients ask us about ingesting the popular supplement for more youthful skin.

I always tell my clients the truth, and sometimes that means I have to tell them “I don’t know” or in this case “here’s the research that is out there and here’s my opinion.”

So let’s start with the research. If you look at most of the studies out there on ingesting collagen peptides you will find that, simply put, they break down to amino acids in the stomach. The collagen that we want to build up our dermis is type I and III. While most of these supplements ARE hydrolyzed collagen (meaning I and III) this doesn’t mean that the supplement turns into the correct collagen for skin repair OR that it gets exactly where it needs to go for more youthful, plump skin via ingestion.

A few newer studies out there are showing some promise for that happening but if you rely on the studies specifically then they just aren’t concrete enough at this time. Below is a newer study showing some promise.

[Studies have shown that age-dependent reduction in collagen synthesis can be reversed by oral administration of specific bioactive collagen peptides [,,,,,]. These oligopeptides are obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of natural collagen. After ingestion, they are further metabolized to bioactive di- and tri-peptides in the gastrointestinal tract, which are then released into the blood stream and accumulated in the skin to form the collagen biomatrix [,,].

[Typical collagen hydrolysates are composed of peptides of different lengths and, depending on the collagen source, are characterized by a special amino acid composition. The unique (high coverage—[HC]) collagen complex (ELASTEN®) tested here contains short chain oligopeptides composed of 5 to 8, 9 to 15, and 16 to 26 amino acids and have a high coverage with amino acids sequences found in human skin collagen proteins.]

Published online 2019 Oct 17 by the US National Library of Medicine and National Institutes of Health

A Medical Aestheticians Opinion

Now for my opinion- We as Medical Aestheticians working along side Dermatologists rely greatly on scientific studies and research. It’s impossible not to. But even though I know the studies are not concrete and that several doctors and providers may disagree with or ignore studies that collagen supplements help to keep the skin plumper and more youthful, I take it every day anyway. My reasoning is: why not? It could be helping stave off aging even a small amount, helping ease the demise of my over used joints and muscles. It’s definitely not hurting anything and if nothing else, it’s a clean, low calorie protein source in my coffee everyday!

We DO know that consistent use of high quality, medical grade products such as Vitamin C and Retinol (Vitamin A) are proven to stimulate collagen and prevent loss of collagen, so those are no brainers! Everyone should be doing those as basic anti-aging skincare.

benefits of collagen peptides, vitamin c
Benefits of collagen peptides, retinol

We also know without a doubt that several treatments stimulate the right type of collagen for lifting, firming and smoothing the skin. Microneedling, Radio Frequency, RF Microneedling, Ultherapy, different wavelenghth laser treatments, chemical peels, etc. Most of these treatments stimulate elastin as well which gives the skin its elasticity or “snap-back”, but that’s for another post…

So in conclusion: rely on tried and true products and treatments for collagen stimulation and prevention. Drink lots of water, stay out of the sun and WEAR SPF DAILY, limit processed foods and sugar specifically and get plenty of sleep! A healthy lifestyle and an excellent skin care regime will be just what the doctor ordered and you can sprinkle some collagen peptide powder on top for good measure!

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