What is Mascne?

Mascne is basically acne caused from wearing face masks and face coverings. Something I never thought I’d be wrinting a post on. BUT these are the times we are living in and Mascne is real and probably here to stay, at least for awhile.

SO….Mascne is a type of acne called acne mechanica. Acne mechanica is a form of acne that anyone can get, but it’s especially common in athletes, teenagers and soldiers. Typically these are the people wearing helmets, chin straps, headbands and face masks, but nowadays, this applies to everyone!  This type of acne is triggered by excess heat, pressure, friction or rubbing of the skin. Basically effecting skin areas that are under occlusion. Acne mechanica can develop anywhere on the face or body (like the back, shoulders, or buttocks). But right now it’s showing up on my face from constantly wearing a face mask and face shield. And I know this is true for so many of my clients and others.

The combination of sweat and oil under occlusion can lead to the pores becoming clogged and then inflammed. This is a recipe for acne in all different forms. Whiteheads, blackheads, cysts, pustules and papules.

Since this type of acne has clear causes you can try to prevent some of these aggrevators as much as possible:

  • Make sure the skin is clean before applying anything onto it
  • Do not wear makeup under your mask or face shield
  • Try to remove the mask and/or face shield as often as possible to give the skin a break, allowing for air and proper circulation
  • Shower or cleanse the skin as soon as possible when you get home

So let’s talk about some great products to help you treat and prevent mascne. PCA BPO (benzoyl peroxide) wash is AMAZING at quickly reducing inflammatory acne and reducing blackheads and whiteheads. This is a better option for oily skin as it can be drying. Revision Papaya Enzyme Cleanser is a great option for dryer skin types or sensitive skin. PCA Acne Gel can be a great addition to your regimen when your having a flare up OR to prevent one. This is a salicylic acid gel that can be used full-face ( I like to add a pump to my serum or moisturizer ) or as a spot treatment for just the areas breaking out. Salicylic acid is derived from aspirin so you can imagine how effective it is at reducing inflammatory acne. It also kills bacteria and breaks down oily plugs that block the pores.  If you are on the dry side,  you can add 1 pump of acne gel with 1 pump of Revision Hydrating Serum.

BPO 5% CleanserPapaya Enzyme Cleanser- energizing facial cleanser for naturally vibrant skin. Bottle FrontAcne GelD·E·J Night face cream® -all-in-one age-defying night treatment with Retinol - Pump Front

If your not using a retinol nightly, first of all, START! Retinol is our do-it all product! We always recommend it for anti-aging because it helps prevent collagen loss and stimulate collagen production. It does this by increasing cellular turnover. By increasing the cellular turnover, the pores remain less clogged and blocked, reducing acne. So as you can see its a win/win product. If your acne is more advanced and aggressive, extremely inflammed, etc., retinol will also help minimize the appearance of scarring and prevent new scarring. If you are new to using a retinol I recomm Revision DEJ Night. A combination of the infamous DEJ moisturizer and a gentle .25% retinol. Very little to no acclimation with the skin. It is actually quit soothing and anti-inflammatory while providing the cellular turnover result you need. If you are already using a .25% or .5% retinol you can easily bump up to a 1%.

Adding a clay mask 2-4 times a week can make a HUGE difference. Revision Black Mask draws out and absorbs oil while reducing inflammation. This mask also contains some salicylic acid to reduce inflammation and bacteria while providing a lot of antioxidant benefit.

As you can see, inflammation is mentioned over and over again in this post. Inflammation is 1 of 3 major components of acne, the others being oil and bacteria. The reason why i talk about inflammation so much and products that help reduce it is because if we can shut down the inflammation you run less risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and scarring.

If you continue to see breakouts after adding these acne fighting products, we recommend you see a dermatologist or PA at Accent Dermatology.  You don’t want to let acne get out of your control!

Please contact us for a consultation if you are struggling with this new and unusual skin concern in this new and uncertain time. 720-420-4090

 

 

What is Toner and Do You Need It?

The questions I get asked most when it comes to a personal skincare regime is “what is toner?” and “do I need it?”, and these question have many answers.

What is Toner?

First of all, “Toner” can mean many different things. There are several different types of skincare products that classify themselves as toner and they all do very different things for the skin.

Secondly, every skin is different and has different needs.

For the most part a toner is a watery like product that you apply after cleansing to prep your skin for corrective products. Some will be astringent-like to reduce sebum production and kill bacteria. Others will sooth and calm irritated skin. And some will hydrate. The best ones will do it all!

Do I Need It?

I prefer and would recommend using a “toner” to help spread products on the skin. Good quality, highly active corrective products such as retinol, vitamin c and hydrating serum are not cheap, using the correct “toner” will help them last much longer while providing pH balance.

They should ALL help restore the skins pH post cleanse. The pH of the skin is of the utmost importance when is comes to consistency of home skincare, but that’s for another post…

If you’re oily and or acneic, do not use anything with denatured alcohol in it.  Remember Sea Breeze? If you’re over 40 like me, you do. It was the go-to toner in the 80’s and dried the skin out terribly! While that feels and looks good temporarily, drying the skin out disrupts the pH, throws oil production out of whack, causes inflammation and irritation and just makes every skin issue worse. I would recommend oily and acneic skin use a toner with witch hazel.

Good quality witch hazel not only has astringent qualities which fight bacteria and lessen sebum production, but also acts as an anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory which is essential when dealing with acneic skin. Witch hazel is derived from a plant and contains tannins. These tannins are responsible for decreasing swelling, speeding wound healing, warding off infection and the added bonus of antioxidant protection!

what is toner

We recommend Meg 21 Moisturizing Toner. Witch hazel is only 1 of the stars of this toner. It contains sodium hyaluronate, derived from hyaluonic acid to bind essential moisture to the skin but is a smaller molecule that can more easily penetrate the skin deeply. It also contains several antioxidants, lemon peel for brightening the skin, especially post inflammatory pigmentations from acne, and then of course, their signature ingredient supplemine.

Supplemine is an anti-glycation ingredient, breaking down toxic sugars in the skin before they can break down it’s collagen and elastin, making it the perfect “toner” for anyone fighting aging. It is also the perfect “toner” for anyone fighting with acne because it provides the skin with essential hydration it needs to maintain a healthy pH which helps decrease a KEY component of acne which is inflammation.

what is toner

Another amazing one we recommend and carry is Revision Skincare Soothing Facial Rinse. This “toner” is a little thicker, still water-like consistency but slightly more dense which I LOVE because I’m SO dry. It contains many plant extracts including algae which leaves the skin smooth and plump, not dry and tight. 

Arnica which is high in flavanoids giving it a high antioxidant property, and quickly sooths the skin. Grapeseed extract which is rich in antioxidants to prevent oxidative stress to the skin. Pro-vitamin B5 which intensly hydrates and nourishes the skin. And Vitamin K which speeds wound healing, decreases the appearance of dark spots, bruises and scars.

Using one of these products before my Vitamin C in the morning and my Retinol at night not only help spread the product ensuring I use less and that these correctives last longer, but they also create a blanket of hydration to the skin sealing more moisture in which every skintype desperately needs here in Colorado!

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The Essential Skincare Correctives You Need in Your Regime

skincare correctives

Skincare Correctives: What Do We Mean When We Talk About These?

You’ve got your basic skincare products: cleanser, maybe a toner, moisturizer, and SPF. But what skincare products do we all need to really see a change in our skin? To see a healthier, clearer, younger-acting skin? These are our essential skincare correctives for almost all skin types and skin concerns.

Retinol

Vitamin A derivatives are a must for almost every single person who walks through our door. Retinol is the only clinally proven skincare ingredient shown to actually reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and if you’re a retinol junkie like us, you know it does that and then some.

Our skin cells naturally regenerate every 28 days when we’re young, that slows down significantally as we age, leading to a build up of dry, dead skin, dullness, dark spots and crepey texture. Acne can also be caused by this build up of dead skin in the pores, forming a “traffic jam” with our sebum leading to congestion. This is why we see so many clients with dry yet acneic skin.

Consistant retinol use keeps the cell turnover going at an excellerated rate. This allows for better absorbtion of other skincare products, a decrease in unwanted pigmentation (sundamage), fewer fine lines and wrinkles, less congestion of blackheads and whiteheads, more hydrated skin, more even skintone, less scarring, production of new collagen and  prevention of collagen loss that we already have and want to keep! That’s pretty fantastic! We joke around here that if you have wrinkles: retinol, acne: retinol, boyfriend dumped you: retinol, and on and on! It really does help EVERYTHING!

The sun can deactivate the vitamin A so it is always recommended to use at night. This also encourages us to cleanse and prep the skin before bed which we all know at this point is crucial for healthy, beautiful skin!

Vitamin C

An absolute must for any Colorado skin, Vitamin C does so many things. Our bodies don’t store or produce Vitamin C and it’s essential for collagen production. It’s also great for lightening hyperpigmentation or sun spots, or just overall brighteing of the skin. Vitamin C can also help reduce chronic redness in the skin as it acts as an anti-inflammatory. Acne is often improved with Vitamin C use as well, as inflammation is a key coomponent of acne.

Hyperpigmentation, broken capillaries and diffuse redness can all be signs of sundamage and that’s important to know living in a state with an elevation like ours.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps prevent and reverse oxidative damage caused by UV rays. The sun, especially at our elevation, causes so much more oxidation (free radical damage) on our skin than that of sea level. We recommend this important ingredient to every person and skin concern we see, even if it’s preventative.

Eye Cream and Neck Cream

These are often at the bottom of the priority list for people and they should absolutely be at the top! The signs of aging on the neck and around the eyes are not only some of the hardest to treat but some of the most common concerns we hear.

The skin around the eyes is the thinnest skin on the body and often lacks active oil glands, combine that with constant motion from smiling, etc. and fine lines, wrinkles and laxity show up quickly!

The neck will often show signs of aging from “tech neck” or the constant position of our heads and necks looking down at out screens all day, everyday. Sleeping also causes creases and wrinkles on the neck and chest from prolonged postitions. The skin on the neck is often neglected when it comes to basic skin care products such as moisturizer and spf leading to a quick onset of lines and wrinkles. The neck and chest are thin and need not only the basics but the corrective skincare treatments just as much as your face. Trust us. You’ll thank us later.

Scheduling a consultation is the best way to learn what medical-grade skincare products are best for you.

Why everyone should be doing chemical peels!

Chemical peels can sound scary. “Chemical?”, ” will my face be burned?”, “how long will i peel?”, “what will the peeling be like?”. And of course a reference to Samantha from Sex in the City. Yup, you know that episode.

These are all very good questions and the answers are different for everyone and for every chemical peel.

Why do we love chemical peels? Well…when we’re young our skin cells are constantly turning over and sloughing off naturally, being replaced with new, beautiful skin cells. As we age that process slows down and dead, damaged cells pile up creating the skin we don’t like. Fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, brown spots, dryness, loss of firmness and acne scarring. Chemical peels are also wonderful, low risk treatments for pesky acne and acne scar prevention!

There are many, many types of chemical peels. Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. Beta Hydroxy Acid such as salicylic acid. Fruit enzymes such as bromelain and papaine (from pineapple and papaya). TCA, Phenol, the list goes on.

They can also be categorized into superficial, medium and deep. Referring to the level of skin they reach.

What type of chemical peel we use is determined by many things such as skin type, skin color, skin tolerance, skin issue or concern. ie:, acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, etc., and also how much “down time” or possible peeling you’re willing to undergo.

Chemical peels are so wonderful because they tend to do many things at the same time. They “burn” the top portion of the skin in a controlled manner, which causes a wound. The body senses this burn/wound and kicks starts your natural wound healing. This process produces new, healthy cells and sends them to the top levels of the skin to replace the damaged ones that will slough or “peel” off. Along the way, collagen is stimulated and the skin takes on a plumper, smoother, brighter appearance. In a sense, chemical peels can not only get your skin healthier and younger looking but they can cause your skin to act younger and healthier.

We absolutely love chemical peels and know you will too. Come see us for a consultation to determine which type is right for you!

Accent Aesthetics: 720-420-4090

 

Beyond Botox….

I think by now we all know there is no miracle in a bottle, and botox has been the closest thing we have seen to astonishing results with minimal side effects.

 

However, optimum skin health goes beyond botox.  It is similar to the health of our bodies- to be optimally healthy you have to work on several factors- diet, cardio and strength training.  Having youthful healthy skin is much the same. IF you only do botox, you are only addressing one aspect of what takes place as we age. The aging face is multifactorial and thus your anti-aging treatments should be so as well. Bone loss, descent of fat pads, skin texture changes, dermal thinning and photodamage all contribute.  When you work with a dermatologist and their staff, you are offered non-invasive treatment options to address these different aspects of aging.

 

Technology advancements in the field of cosmeceuticals has brought us amazing topical skin care products.  I recently attended a conference where a scientist was reviewing various ingredients/ peptides and said to conduct the research, develop best formulations and then bring those highly active ingredients to market costs money!  If you are getting a Vitmain C serum on Amazon for under a certain price point- do not expect much change to your skin.  Even when we find highly effective products it is good to change your regimen every so often.  We do not like to use growth-hormone products long term and not every person can tolerate tretinoin.  So partner with someone who can help you achieve your best! Last but not least- healthy inside will reflect healthy outside- clean eating, restful sleep, adequate water intake, physical exercise…..and wear an SPF 30 on your face daily!

 

I always tell patients our goal is find the treatments that will give the most bang for the buck and find the balance between a treatment that is highly effective while still being safe.  You want to partner with a skincare expert who attends educational events, stays up on current trends, has access to multiple modalities to use and works alongside a Board-Certified Dermatologist or Plastic Surgeon to minimize unwanted side effects.  Look for someone who will be candid, give realistic expectations and instead of trying to sell you something- will give you both short term as well as long –term goals for your skin.

 

Written by Kerri Zukosky, PA-C