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Vitamin A aka Retinoids

retinoids

What are Retinoids? 

Most of us have heard of Retinol and Retin-A, but do you know that ALL retinoids and retinols are simply forms or derivitives of VITAMIN A?!

This often surprises clients when I tell them this, as Retinoids and Retinols have been vilified by some people in the skincare industry. A lot of skincare companies are making their money off of using the words “clean” and “chemical free” these days. All this does is scare the consumer. As we all know everything is a chemical, water, air, vitamins, everything. So this holds no truth and can be very unbeneficial for your skin. Vitamin A derivatives have been used for decades and have been studied since the early 20th century when the structure of Vitamin A was discovered.

Vitamin A

Our bodies can’t make vitamins, so we must get them externally. We can get vitamin A either through topical application or through the ingestion of beta-carotene-rich foods like carrots, sweet potatoes, and spinach. When broken down, vitamin A and its metabolites are very beneficial. They can affect everything from vision to inflammation to the proliferation of cells.

Proliferation means growth. Retinoids increase cellular turnover in the skin, meaning they grow faster, which is going to make the skin a little bit thicker. They also make the outermost cells shed, which is why some people think it’s exfoliating, even though that’s really a secondary effect. This makes the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) more compact, which gives a nice anti-aging benefit.

Unfortunatly some skincare companies such as Beauty Counter are dragging them through the mud claiming they cause cancer. This is the furthest thing from the truth and they have no clinical studies to back up their claims. We actually use retinoids to treat and prevent cancerous and pre-cancerous cells. And the clinical papers on it are never ending. Just another reason to get your skincare advice from professionals.

What does this do for me? 

Retinoids also aid in the moisturization of skin by stimulating the productions of compounds that have sugars in them (glycosaminoglycans).

Most importantly they help PREVENT collagen loss and SUPPORT collagen production!

Finally, retinoids are antioxidants, so they help prevent a lot of oxidative stress. Retinoids are truly amazing and do so many great things for the skin!

 

PRP vs. PRF

By now you’ve probably heard of PRP, or platelet rich plasma, in either an orthopaedic setting or used for the famous “Vampire Facial”, but what exactly is this new PRF? PRP vs PRF

PRF stands for platelet rich fibrin, and is the second generation, new and WAY improved version of PRP. Our bodies have amazing healing and regenerative properties, and PRF seeks to take advantage of these. When used in aesthetics, it is an all natural way to reverse visible signs of aging.

How Does it Work?

When blood is spun it is separated into layers based on density- red blood cells, white blood cells/platelets, and plasma. The majority of our body’s healing capabilities lie in the white blood cell/platelet layer (buffy coat) and plasma layer. When we collect the plasma and buffy coat layers, that is called PRP or PRF depending on the tubes used to spin the blood (more on that below).

PRP vs PRF
PRP vs PRF

The first step in our body’s healing process is the formation of a fibrin clot matrix, followed by the recruitment of growth factors to help form new blood vessels, new cells, new collagen, and overall new healthy tissue. The half life of growth factors is very short, we are talking 6-8h, whereas a clot lasts a few weeks to a few months and releases growth factors continuously over that time period. So where does PRP vs PRF fit into all of this?

PRP vs PRF – What’s The Difference?

The only meaningful difference between PRP and PRF is the tubes used to collect them. PRP utilizes tubes with anticoagulants, whereas PRF tubes have no chemical additives. Anticoagulants are chemicals that keep blood from clotting, which is great when we want to send your blood to a lab and it needs to stay liquid for a long time, but is the absolute worst if we are trying to utilize your blood for the healing properties, as the formation of the clot is the first and arguably one of the most important steps in the healing process! So because PRP tubes have anticoagulants, no clotting factors make it into what is injected- you only get the growth factors, which are beneficial, but again only last a few hours on their own. Not much time to aid in any sort of healing or regeneration. PRF tubes on the other hand have nothing in them, so you not only get the growth factors for immediate help but also the clotting factors, which again release additional growth factors slowly over the next few weeks for the full healing spectrum!

So now you can see why PRF is the new and improved version of PRP, because why settle for just a few hours of growth factors with PRP when you can get weeks of your body’s full healing capabilities with PRF!

There are many ways PRF is used in aesthetics. It may be used as a liquid- injected directly into fine lines/wrinkles/other problem areas, microneedled into skin, or mixed with other products such as Radiesse or Sculptra. This may improve collagen/elastin formation, blood flow, healing of skin from inflammatory lesions such as acne, etc. PRF may also be heated and used as a solid (biofiller)- injected directly into areas where traditionally an HA filler (or other types of fillers) would be used to both improve volume and stimulate your body’s own collagen/elastin response in that area.

If you’re ready for a truly all natural way to reverse and prevent aging and other aesthetic concerns, come in for a consult today so we can see what PRF can do for you!

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Exciting New Product Alert!

PCA Skin Vitamin b3 Brightening Serum - 1 fl oz

I’m certain we here at Accent Dermatology and Accent Aesthetics will always have our favorite, can’t live without skin-care products. So when something new comes along that we LOVE, it’s news worthy!

PCA Skin just came out with their Vitamin B3 Brightening Serum and we can’t keep it on the shelves!

This heavy hitter uses a 6% Niacinimide (A type of B Vitamin). Typically this ingredient has been used to reduce reds in the skin and help with acne. At a higher concentration of 6%, we are seeing not only a reduction in the reds caused by rosacea, acne, etc but also an excellent reduction in brown spots, photodamage and especially melasma!

This is an exciting new tool to add to anyone’s toolbox, especially those looking to reduce BOTH reds and browns and definitly breakout. It leaves the skin very hydrated and calm by strengthening it’s barrier function.

PCA SKIN Vitamin b3 Brightening Serum | LovelySkin

 

 

Skincare Membership: Exclusive Inclusivity

44 Best Skin-Care Products in 2021 According to 'Vogue' Editors | Vogue

It’s been a little over a year since we launched our skincare membership program and we couldn’t be happier with it! I know our members feel the same way!

Not only does it save our clients $ but the consistancy that they have with the monthly membership is showing pretty remarkable results!

These are some of the benefits of montly, consistant skincare treatments:

  • greatly reduced breakouts
  • significantly less blackhead congestion
  • noticable reduction in pore size
  • less scarring and marking from picking blemishes
  • reduction in hyperpigmentation/sundamage
  • smoother, tighter texture
  • better overall skin health

Along with monthly skincare treatments, our members receive discounts on all of our medical grade skincare products, discounts on injectables such as neurotoxin, fillers and PRF, discounts on other skincare treatments outside of their membership tier, and sneak preview into new treatments!

A great example of how the membership works is monthly microdermabrasion or chemical peel or hydrafacial treatments for someone with moderate breakout around the mouth, chin and jawline (classic). When these clients come in monthly we can decide which treatment is best for their skin at that time and extract all of the congestion in a sterile, healthy, non-damaging way. This has made a huge difference in those clients who were not only frustrated with the breakouts but the scarring it was leaving behind. When that client comes in with little to no breakout, we can switch their appointment to a microneedling for example to help reduce the texture and discoloration from the previous breakout, which they then get a discount on!

These consistant treatments along with home care not only create the skin you want but maintain it down the road. It’s a win/win!

Looking deeply into your heart. Close up of good looking young man half face looking at camera while standing against grey background male skin care stock pictures, royalty-free photos & images

Retinoids vs Retinol: What’s The Difference?

Curious about the difference between Retinoids vs Retinol? This is an extremely common question, especially working with Dermatologists. Clients want to know if they should see the Dermatologist for a prescription or use something OTC (over the counter).

The Simple Difference

I like to keep it simple. The way I explain it to my clients is: Retinoids=Prescription strength, Retinol=non-prescription strength. All are Vitamin A. Now there is a lot of wiggle room here as there are a lot of different brands and concentrations out there.

Retinol Example

retinoids vs retinol

Retinoid Example

retinoids vs retinol

Retinoids vs Retinol Explained

A patient would see a Dermatologist for an Rx retinoid cream such as Tretinoin or Tazorac for conditions such as  severe acne, scarring, etc. These are converted to retinoic acid rapidly in the skin and begin the cell turnover process very fast. This is good for getting results quickly.

The downside of these can be, (for some, not all), extreme irritation and dryness. Because it works so quickly and strongly, it runs the risk of degrading the skins barrier function, leading to dryness, redness and overall intolerability. The problem with this is that a lot of clients will not use them consistently, which is crucial for improvement. For example: they will apply it Sunday night and become so dry and irritated for 2-5 days, then use it again once their skin has returned to normal. While this will still give a result, It is uncomfortable and not as efficatious.

Retinol on the other hand takes a bit more time to be converted into Retinoic acid in the skin but sometimes this is a good thing. Our favorite Retinol products from Revision Skincare are time released so the skin absorbs it in a very controlled manner, decreasing downtime and irritability. It also has several antioxidants including bakuchiol which is a broad spectrum antioxidant that increases the efficacy of the retinol, and contains several other antioxidants to help sooth the skin.

All of the Revision Skincare products contain peptides that do all sorts of things like help the skin hold on to precious moisture and help prevent loss of collagen and elastin, decrease inflammation, lighten hyperpigmentation, the list goes on and on. Revision has been a pioneer in the retinol business. Their products deliver prescription strength results but feel like a nuturing, luxury line.

Vitamin A derivatives are the ONLY product clinically proven to treat fine lines and wrinkles, so regardless of which one you choose, just use it! You will thank me later…

If you are unsure of which retinol to use, come in for a consultation. We are happy to find you the perfect fit for your skincare goals!

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