The Essential Skincare Correctives You Need in Your Regime

skincare correctives

Skincare Correctives: What Do We Mean When We Talk About These?

You’ve got your basic skincare products: cleanser, maybe a toner, moisturizer, and SPF. But what skincare products do we all need to really see a change in our skin? To see a healthier, clearer, younger-acting skin? These are our essential skincare correctives for almost all skin types and skin concerns.

Retinol

Vitamin A derivatives are a must for almost every single person who walks through our door. Retinol is the only clinally proven skincare ingredient shown to actually reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and if you’re a retinol junkie like us, you know it does that and then some.

Our skin cells naturally regenerate every 28 days when we’re young, that slows down significantally as we age, leading to a build up of dry, dead skin, dullness, dark spots and crepey texture. Acne can also be caused by this build up of dead skin in the pores, forming a “traffic jam” with our sebum leading to congestion. This is why we see so many clients with dry yet acneic skin.

Consistant retinol use keeps the cell turnover going at an excellerated rate. This allows for better absorbtion of other skincare products, a decrease in unwanted pigmentation (sundamage), fewer fine lines and wrinkles, less congestion of blackheads and whiteheads, more hydrated skin, more even skintone, less scarring, production of new collagen and  prevention of collagen loss that we already have and want to keep! That’s pretty fantastic! We joke around here that if you have wrinkles: retinol, acne: retinol, boyfriend dumped you: retinol, and on and on! It really does help EVERYTHING!

The sun can deactivate the vitamin A so it is always recommended to use at night. This also encourages us to cleanse and prep the skin before bed which we all know at this point is crucial for healthy, beautiful skin!

Vitamin C

An absolute must for any Colorado skin, Vitamin C does so many things. Our bodies don’t store or produce Vitamin C and it’s essential for collagen production. It’s also great for lightening hyperpigmentation or sun spots, or just overall brighteing of the skin. Vitamin C can also help reduce chronic redness in the skin as it acts as an anti-inflammatory. Acne is often improved with Vitamin C use as well, as inflammation is a key coomponent of acne.

Hyperpigmentation, broken capillaries and diffuse redness can all be signs of sundamage and that’s important to know living in a state with an elevation like ours.

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps prevent and reverse oxidative damage caused by UV rays. The sun, especially at our elevation, causes so much more oxidation (free radical damage) on our skin than that of sea level. We recommend this important ingredient to every person and skin concern we see, even if it’s preventative.

Eye Cream and Neck Cream

These are often at the bottom of the priority list for people and they should absolutely be at the top! The signs of aging on the neck and around the eyes are not only some of the hardest to treat but some of the most common concerns we hear.

The skin around the eyes is the thinnest skin on the body and often lacks active oil glands, combine that with constant motion from smiling, etc. and fine lines, wrinkles and laxity show up quickly!

The neck will often show signs of aging from “tech neck” or the constant position of our heads and necks looking down at out screens all day, everyday. Sleeping also causes creases and wrinkles on the neck and chest from prolonged postitions. The skin on the neck is often neglected when it comes to basic skin care products such as moisturizer and spf leading to a quick onset of lines and wrinkles. The neck and chest are thin and need not only the basics but the corrective skincare treatments just as much as your face. Trust us. You’ll thank us later.

Scheduling a consultation is the best way to learn what medical-grade skincare products are best for you.

Why everyone should be doing chemical peels!

Chemical peels can sound scary. “Chemical?”, ” will my face be burned?”, “how long will i peel?”, “what will the peeling be like?”. And of course a reference to Samantha from Sex in the City. Yup, you know that episode.

These are all very good questions and the answers are different for everyone and for every chemical peel.

Why do we love chemical peels? Well…when we’re young our skin cells are constantly turning over and sloughing off naturally, being replaced with new, beautiful skin cells. As we age that process slows down and dead, damaged cells pile up creating the skin we don’t like. Fine lines, wrinkles, sun damage, brown spots, dryness, loss of firmness and acne scarring. Chemical peels are also wonderful, low risk treatments for pesky acne and acne scar prevention!

There are many, many types of chemical peels. Alpha Hydroxy Acids, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. Beta Hydroxy Acid such as salicylic acid. Fruit enzymes such as bromelain and papaine (from pineapple and papaya). TCA, Phenol, the list goes on.

They can also be categorized into superficial, medium and deep. Referring to the level of skin they reach.

What type of chemical peel we use is determined by many things such as skin type, skin color, skin tolerance, skin issue or concern. ie:, acne, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, etc., and also how much “down time” or possible peeling you’re willing to undergo.

Chemical peels are so wonderful because they tend to do many things at the same time. They “burn” the top portion of the skin in a controlled manner, which causes a wound. The body senses this burn/wound and kicks starts your natural wound healing. This process produces new, healthy cells and sends them to the top levels of the skin to replace the damaged ones that will slough or “peel” off. Along the way, collagen is stimulated and the skin takes on a plumper, smoother, brighter appearance. In a sense, chemical peels can not only get your skin healthier and younger looking but they can cause your skin to act younger and healthier.

We absolutely love chemical peels and know you will too. Come see us for a consultation to determine which type is right for you!

Accent Aesthetics: 720-420-4090

 

Great skin isn’t just for the rich and famous!

I recently read an article that really made my blood boil. Here it is: https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2019/01/skin-care-secret-wealth/579337/

As a long time Aesthetician, this sort of writing is infuriating. Many of us work very hard to make skin-care accessible to most people. Yes, we have very expensive treatments and products, but we also have products that aren’t expensive and treatments that are very reasonable and we work hard to make consistency EASY by providing things such as discounts on packages, weekly specials, holiday specials, birthday product discounts, annual open house specials, etc., etc.

Look, everyone has their priorities. If your skin is one of them, you will find a way to pay for it. Take for example our family dinner/movie night last weekend, which most people I know, who are NOT rich, do once a month or more:

3 of us. 2 adults, 1 child. Imax movie tickets=$54.00. 2 waters, 1 soda, 1 popcorn and 2 candies=$39. Parking=$7. Dinner and drinks beforehand at a mediocre restaurant downtown=$83 with tip. $183!!! For 3 1/2 hours of our weekend! For $183 our clients can get a complete skincare kit with top of the line cleanser, retinol, vitamin C lotion, and tinted or non tinted SPF. Or many other combinations of beautiful, prescription strength, high potency skincare products that will last them 3-6 months! If you break that down per month its less than $50/month for amazing, everyday skincare that will actually change your skin. For $183 or LESS, you could have an amazing Hydrafacial or one of many chemical peels, among several other treatments that will give you great results. Plus you can stay home and rent Netflix and make grilled cheese and soup and all snuggle on the couch for FREE and have just as much fun!

A day on the ski slopes, a football game, a new outfit, the newest techy gadgits such as phones, watches, earbuds. Everything adds up and we all choose how we want to spend our money. We all have a smart phone or a computer or Kindle Fire or whatever, and we’re not all rich. It’s about where our financial priorities lie. If improving your skin is truly a priority for you, you will eat out less, spend less on clothes and makeup, choose $5 drinks instead of $12 drinks when you go out. Use the old Iphone you have another year. The list goes on and on.

The worst thing you can do, and what this article implies, is to say “well, I’m not rich and not a celebrity, so i shouldn’t even try.” NO! Everyday we do consults on people who are saving for a house, sending their kids to college, newly retired and on a fixed income, etc. We work with them, discuss what they need and how to get there within THEIR budget. That’s what we do! We want everyone to feel good about themselves and their skin. The author of the article probably doesn’t understand our industry nearly as well as we do and certainly does not understand what is possible within it.

Hmmm, maybe I’ll send her my card, sounds like she needs a good aesthetician….

Prevention is always easier than treatment!

 

In a perfect world, everyone would start wearing sunscreen AND hats year-round in their teens and early 20’s.

80% of skin aging is caused by chronic sun exposure, and by your 30’s, 40’s and definitely 50’s, it really shows!

UV rays not only cause redness and brown spots but they break down your skin’s underlying structure, causing sagging, hollowed, wrinkled skin.

Your genetics play a role in your aging as well. This is called intrinsic aging. But your long term UV exposure causes the most dire damage, and as a type of extrinsic aging, (external), this is very much preventable!

Beyond sunscreen, what else can you do?

A good, high quality home care regime is hands down the best thing you can do for your skin, especially at an early age. Those good genetics won’t last forever and Colorado’s harsh environment WILL win if you don’t use active, high quality skincare. Notice I’ve emphasized “good” and “quality” several times: we truly believe you “get what you pay for” when it comes to skincare. We have seen the science and the technology that goes into creating effective and transformative skincare products and it’s not cheap or easy. Plan on a budget for your skincare, you don’t need to use 15 products. 2 or 3 excellent quality products can be perfect if your consistent and you start early. What you do at home daily will make the biggest impact on your skin long-term!

Treatments:

We see many clients daily that want a miracle, “magic wand” treatment. The closest thing we have to that is neurotoxin,(botox), and fillers. Many do not want to go down that route. They are wonderful treatments but require constant maintenance. Plus they generally do not CHANGE the underlying structure of your skin, what makes your skin look healthy, youthful and beautiful. ( There are some such as Sculptra that can but that is for another post).

If you want to keep your skin looking it’s best, start with regular treatments early!

Microdermabrasions, light chemical peels, Laser Genesis, microneedling, etc. These non-invasive treatments exfoliate or create tiny wounds that stimulate the wound-healing process which stimulates new, healthy cells and along with them COLLAGEN!! Excellent for changing the skin over time and definitely preventing signs of aging. These treatments are best every 4-8 weeks.

 

 

 

3 Ways to Avoid A Halloween Skin Nightmare

Please check out this wonderful post by one of our favorite skin care lines! Meg 21 is all about stopping glycation in the skin. Glycation is the damage to proteins caused by sugar molecules and has become a buzzword amongst skincare experts, has long been a focus of study in people with diabetes, and now as part of the skin aging process. Meg 21 has been utilizing this anti-aging skincare process for over 30 years! Seems a fitting read this time of year!

 

 

 

3 Ways to Avoid A Halloween Skin Nightmare

Americans purchase nearly 600 million pounds of candy each year for Halloween.

That’s a lot of sugar!  “Not to worry,” you say.  “I’ll go easy on sugar and treat myself to Fun Size candy bars.” Nothing like moderation, but don’t fall for the hype.  Fun Size Skittles, for example, contains over 11 grams of sugar.  It’s equivalent to swallowing almost 3 teaspoons of sugar–and the recommended daily intake is 6 teaspoons.  There goes half the “fun” in your holiday!

There is not a single benefit to your skin from consuming excess sugar. Countless studies confirm the harmful effects of sugar on health and wellness. And for skin, sugar is a real nightmare.   Excess sugar is a skin-aging accelerator.  Dr. Annette Tobia published Glycated Sugar: Why It Kills Skin and What to Do About It in Skin Inc. magazine showing the link between sugars and skin.  This research came out of 18 years of research in aging and diabetes at Fox Chase Cancer Center in Philadelphia by a team of scientists who at the same time, serendipitously discovered that those same toxic sugars that cause complications in diabetics, also causes advanced aging in skin.

Sugar is not the only bad trick Halloween can play on your skin.  Before you head for your neighbors’ houses or a rocking costume party, beware of the damaging effects on skin of thick pancake makeup.  Sure it’s fun to transform your face from normal to Nightmare on Elm Street. But keep in mind, the heavier products used for costume makeup contain excess oils, irritants, and pore-clogging ingredients.  You don’t want to wake up the morning after Halloween looking scarier than you did the night before!

Here are 3 easy steps to protect your skin during Halloween.

1. Send the Scary Sugar-Goblins Running

Our body produces sugars as part of the natural metabolic process.  But these sugars, in combination with added excess sugars from your diet, lead to the perfect trifecta of accelerated aging: Inflammation, Oxidative Stress, and Glycation.  These “toxic sugars” attach to your collagen and elastin, causing it to become hardened and brittle, weighing it down, and eventually forming a wrinkle.

Recommendation:  Use a product that contains ingredients to block toxic sugars from attaching to collagen and elastin. The MEG 21 line of skincare products contain Supplamine®, the only patented skin-care ingredient with clinically proven toxic sugar-blocking technology.  

2. Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize!

Skin that is hydrated provides a flawless canvas for your makeup application.

Recommendation:  Regularly moisturize your skin with a product that contains emollients to bond moisture to skin, smooth fine lines, and nourish.  We favor jojoba oil, squalene, shea butter and coconut oil.  

3. Cleanse for Glow in the Dark Skin Radiance

Be sure to cleanse off ALL traces of makeup before bed.  It’s the first “must” step in your nightly routine.

Recommendation:  Do a double cleanse.  First, use a cleanser that can be applied without water. This helps makeup bond to the cleanser, which then gets wiped away in one gentle movement, using a cotton round or tissues.  Second, perform another cleanse with water to ensure everything is removed.  Follow with a spritz of tonerand your favorite sugar-blocking moisturizer, such as Smooth Radiance Face Treatment.

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Beyond Botox….

I think by now we all know there is no miracle in a bottle, and botox has been the closest thing we have seen to astonishing results with minimal side effects.

 

However, optimum skin health goes beyond botox.  It is similar to the health of our bodies- to be optimally healthy you have to work on several factors- diet, cardio and strength training.  Having youthful healthy skin is much the same. IF you only do botox, you are only addressing one aspect of what takes place as we age. The aging face is multifactorial and thus your anti-aging treatments should be so as well. Bone loss, descent of fat pads, skin texture changes, dermal thinning and photodamage all contribute.  When you work with a dermatologist and their staff, you are offered non-invasive treatment options to address these different aspects of aging.

 

Technology advancements in the field of cosmeceuticals has brought us amazing topical skin care products.  I recently attended a conference where a scientist was reviewing various ingredients/ peptides and said to conduct the research, develop best formulations and then bring those highly active ingredients to market costs money!  If you are getting a Vitmain C serum on Amazon for under a certain price point- do not expect much change to your skin.  Even when we find highly effective products it is good to change your regimen every so often.  We do not like to use growth-hormone products long term and not every person can tolerate tretinoin.  So partner with someone who can help you achieve your best! Last but not least- healthy inside will reflect healthy outside- clean eating, restful sleep, adequate water intake, physical exercise…..and wear an SPF 30 on your face daily!

 

I always tell patients our goal is find the treatments that will give the most bang for the buck and find the balance between a treatment that is highly effective while still being safe.  You want to partner with a skincare expert who attends educational events, stays up on current trends, has access to multiple modalities to use and works alongside a Board-Certified Dermatologist or Plastic Surgeon to minimize unwanted side effects.  Look for someone who will be candid, give realistic expectations and instead of trying to sell you something- will give you both short term as well as long –term goals for your skin.

 

Written by Kerri Zukosky, PA-C